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John Pennoyer  > Other > Featured Photos
This gallery will be a recent image that I will give some details on why, how, where, when and technical data that was required for me to take this particular image. However, like many things in photography there is generally more than one way to accomplish your goal.
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John Pennoyer > June 2011 "Showys in a Tamarack Bog"

With Minnesota being the land of 10,000 lakes it is no wonder that we also have many bogs to allow the adventurous photographer to explore. My first trip into a bog was around 1983/84, a friend took me in to look for a orchid called "Calypso". I was eager to go but had no idea what a bog was or even what the orchid looked like, my venue into photography was just starting. Upon entering the bog it was like being in a different world, being totally surrounded by the environment of a bog. Bog type trees being so close it made moving around very precarious and with each step your feet would sink into soft wet carpet of sphagnum moss. But after my friend located the Calypso Orchid and I looked at this most colorful and beautiful orchid, I was hooked. Ever since that year I make probably 3-4 trips every summer into various bogs in Minnesota and Western Wisconsin. This "Feature Photo" is giving some tips if you decide to get away from the crowd and do a little "Bog Photography". Bog environments are home to some very special botanical subjects including many of Minneosta's native orchid species. You can locate bogs by searching Minneosta or any other state Department of Natural Resource web site. In Minneosta also search "Scientific and Natural Areas" and also "The Nature Conservancy". When you locate a bog site many times they will also include a documented plant list for that particular bog. Just this year I discovered a new bog and found many botanical subjects including our state flower the Show Lady's slipper, the image for this feature photo was taken in that bog. 
Before entering a bog I spray "Permanone" on my clothes from waist down this is good for ticks, I than spray all exposed skin with Deet, mosquitoes are usually horrendous in bogs. I always wear knee high rubber boots with pants tucked in and regardless of temperature and humidity long sleeve shirts and hat. I usually have a map of the area and "always" take a compass reading before entering. I do use a GPS but sometimes the trees are so thick it is hard to get satellite signals, so I generally have both compass and GPS. I would recommend that you enter a bog with a friend that likes to be adventurous also. When walking in a bog I tend to step on "clumps" of grasses or next to trees. A person can step into a soft part of the bog floor and sink into above your knees. That has only happened to me one time. Even though I have been asked many times to lead workshops or groups into bogs, I personally feel the environment is so sensitive that even one person can cause enviromental damage. Just imagine what damage 8-10 people can cause. I am personally alone or with just one friend. Also always watch where you step or kneel, many of the bog botanical subjects are very tiny and rare. Orchids are not always these big plants but maybe just a few inches above the bog floor, and some are very rare. So just use caution when entering a bog and caution where you step.  One other word of caution, never leave your camera equipment unattended to go and explore, you may never find it again. One final note; some bogs do require a permit to enter if that is the case be sure to get the permit from the appropriate agency. 
If you are like me and enjoy solitude and a pristine environment try a little bog photography. 
Good Shooting

Tech Data
Nikon D300
Nikon 12mm-24mm lens @ 16mm
Manual Exposure @ +2/3
F-16 @ 1/4 sec
ISO 400
Cloudy White Balance
Matrix metering
Gitzo 1548 tripod
RRS BH 55 Ball Head
Cable Release and Mirror Lock-up
Hama Bubble lever
John Pennoyer > August 2011 "Monarch in flight" 

During my "Shooting the Light" week-end photo seminar, we got lucky and hit a huge Monarch migration, the Monarchs evidently made a refueling stop at  the Minnesota Landscape Arobretum. Myself and many of the students spent a couple of hours in the Sensory Garden photographing these beautiful flying insects. Getting a Monarch that was perched on top of the flowers was relatively easy, just a little patience and the photographer would get their image. There were probably a few "deletes" but everyone was eventually rewarded with a very spectacular and colorful image of a black/orange Monarch on top of the brighter orange Zinnia flowers. But my personal goal was to get an image of the Monarch in flight as they flew from flower to flower. This is much harder but still with a little more patience and proper "flying" photography technique I was eventually rewarded with quite a few images of Monarchs on the wing. My technique is not much different than shooting birds in flight, My Nikon is set for Dynamic auto focus, center focus point, (9 Point) Continuous High Speed shooting, release priority. I use Aperture Priority and note my shutter speed, if my goal is to "stop" the butterfly in mid-air and a faster shutter speed is desired I will increase my ISO to achieve the faster shutter speed. Check your particular camera's owners manual on how to set-up for high speed shooting, focus tracking etc. One of the biggest mistakes beginning photographers make when shooting critters on the wing, is that they have a tendency to zoom in to tight on the bird or butterfly. It is important to zoom out and let the buttterfly have room in the frame to move. Butterfly's (birds) can move very quicky and if a photographer is zoomed in to tight they are very quickly are out of the frame. As it is a photographer will still get out-of-focus, cut-off butterfly's but using this technique will still get you some keepers. Using the center focus point may result with the butterfly in the center of the image but just crop in post-processing to get the desired composition. The latest high resolution DSLR camera's have made cropping so much easier to deal with allowing us to crop and still retain good data for a quality image. 
Good Shooting

Technical Data
Nikon D300
Nikon 70-200mm VR lens @ 122mm
ISO 500
Aperture Priority
EV -1/3
F5.6 @ 1/3200
Handheld VR on
John Pennoyer > September 2011 "Peyto lake"

For the last several years I have been instructing a week-end photography workshop that I refer to as "Shooting the Light". In this workshop I stress how important the light is for your photography, almost every subject is best during a certain type of light. it could be a sunrise/sunset with wispy clouds on Lake Superior,or a woodland landscapes overcast days are best to help reduce contrast. Fall photography can be fantastic on overcast, misty days, this really helps saturate the color. But there are times you are not privileged to wait or come back when the light will meet your requirements. This Peyto Lake image is a prime expample, my wife and I were traveling in Canada from Banff to Jasper, and I had marked on a map the scenic locations I wanted to visit and this was one of them. Our travel day through this area was heavy overcast with rain, absolutley terrible for the type of mountain landscapes I wanted. When we hiked into this overlook, the clouds were thick and dark gray the scene had no impact. I left my camera set-up and walked around looking for other compositions after about 20 minutes I noticed some shadows and when I looked at my scene the mountain was in diffused light and the lake actual showed a much brighter color. I was able to take maybe three images and it was over. My perfect light lasted maybe 20 seconds. So being a little patient allowed me to get the best possible image I could when dealt with the light that I had at that time. 
Good Shooting

Tech Data
Nikon D300
Nikon 28mm-70mm @28mm
Manual Exposure
F-11 @ 1/40
ISO 200
Cloudy WB
Polarizer 
2-stop GND Filter
Bubble level @ cable release
Matrix metering
Gitzo 1548 CF tripod
RRS BH 55 Ball head
John Pennoyer > November 10,2011: Lighting of Split Rock Lighthouse

On November 10, 1975 the SS Edmund Fitzgerald encountered some very high winds and waves on Lake Superior, with 29 souls aboard the ship losts its battle and sank to the bottom. Every year on the anniversary date, Splitrock State Park will honor those lost at sea and hold a memorial service and then at sunset the light is turned on for about 2 1/2 hours. This particular date was supposed to be a double light with the full moon and the lighthouse. But a heavy cloud cover prevented the moon from appearing. However, over 200 photographers did not go away disappointed the lighthouse itself put on a spectacular display. It is always a tricky exposure when shooting in such dark conditions and with a bright light. I always encourage photographers to look at their histograms because exposure is so different from one shot to the next. With each passing minute it is getting darker and darker. Some early exposure I was shooting in negative values but as the night wore on I was in positive values. Like all night photography it is also difficult to focus and it is important for edges to be sharp. On many of my images I went to "Live View" and zoomed in on the light house and set my focus in manual mode. Splitrock Lighthouse is always a very photogenic subject and I think one of the most photographed lighthouses in North America. But if you are in Minnesota"s North Shore on November 10 you can also enjoy the light show.
Good Shooting

Technical Data
Nikon D300
Nikon 28-70mm lens @ 70mm
ISO 400
Manual exposure
F5.6 @ 4 sec (-1EV)
Matrix metering
Daylight WB (cooled a little more in lightroom)
Bubble level and cable release
Borrowed Bogen tripod (long story)
John Pennoyer > January, 2012: "Sunrise on Lake Superior at Two Harbors Bay"

Most of us take images to share with others, it makes no difference if we do it from a business perspective or just for friends to view them on your web site or just to e-mail a image or two to friends and relatives. My basic advice is to try and fill the frame with interest, sometimes not very easy to accomplish. One thing to always remember is that the camera looks in a two dimensional perspective; horizontal and vertical. It is up to the photographer to create depth in your imagery; generally referred to as a 3 dimensional image. When it comes to landscape photography one of the tips I like to give my students is to try a look for a "strong" foreground. The foreground should be interesting and use as a leading point into the frame. Many times to enhance a strong foreground I generally have my camera low and close to the foreground. On this image My camera was probably just 16" to 20" above the lichen covered rocks. I chose this perspective because of the interest of the lichen and pockets of ice in the rocks. During sunrise the orange/yellow of the clouds reflected not only on the lake but also the rocks. So from the rocks to the lake to the sunrise makes this a 3-dimensional image. Don't misunderstand me, I will at times purposely do a two dimensional image but the majority of my landscapes are three dimensional. So if a photographer just thinks "low and close" they will also begin to create depth in their landscape imagery.
Good Shooting

Technical data
Nikon D300
Nikon 12-24mm lens @ 13mm
Manual exposure 
F-22@ various shutter speeds
ISO 400
Matrix metering
Cloudy WB
Gitzo 3530LS Tripod
RRS BH-55 Ball Head
Cable release
Hama bubble level
3 image HDR (Processed in PS CS5)
John Pennoyer > February 2012: "Hands of Man"

For the last couple of months there has been a Northern Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula) hanging out around Gooseberry State Park in Northern Minnesota. At times northern owls will venture south from their home territories when their food source is in short supply. I have known about this little owl for quite some time as I read the various bird reports and friends who were lucky enough to capture images. When my wife and I decided to spend a few days "up north" one of my goals was to locate this little owl. On the first day we began our search and at the visitor center in the park someone mentioned they had just spotted the owl on a power line by the "Gooseberry Suites" sign. Immediately we hop in the car in search of the sign and the little owl, but after spending considerable amount of time traveling up and down highway 61 we never saw the sign or the owl. The next day we travel back to Gooseberry and began hiking the trails that he was known to frequent, but after a couple of hours we left with no owl in our sights or viewfinder. On the last day while traveling home, I informed my wife that we would spend another hour or two searching for this very mysterious little owl. Just before the State Park entrance we both spotted our little friend perched on a power line and of course right above the "Gooseberry Suites" sign. We have no idea how we missed the sign, but were very happy to locate him. As we watched my little friend I could see that he was actively hunting for his morning breakfast. He was constantly scanning the ditches and at times quickly turning his head in a different direction, stretching his neck and trying to locate a mouse sneaking through the grass. I have lots of images of this particular species but decided to quickly grab an image or two, but I did not want to disturb his hunting. I certainly was not happy with the perch he was on, very rarely do I show "hands of man" on my wildlife images, however there are a few exceptions. There were certainly some very nice evergreens for him to perch, but I think this power line was a much better location for him to spot prey! After all he was more concerned with finding prey than having his picture taken. Spotting these norhthern visitors is always a real treat and I encourage all to enjoy these rare opportunities, but at the same time a person does not want to interfer with their hunting. I do know of photographers and others will use live feeder mice and feed some of these raptors and I have no problem with that but that may be a discussion for another "feature photo" topic in the future. I was just glad to spot this little owl and take a quick grab picture.
Good Shooting

Technical Data
Nikon D200
Nikon 500mm S lens w 1.4X
ISO 400
Aperture priority
EV 0
F5.6 @ 1/1500
Daylight sunny White Balance
Gitzo 3530LS tripod RRS BH 55 Ball head
20% crop
John Pennoyer > May 2012: "Large-flowered Trillium environmental"

Spring is such a great time to be in the woods, the greening of the forest is always such a shiny brilliant green. And the forest floor begins to sprout the color of woodland wildflowers. On this day in the middle of May I visited a State Park in Central Minnesota and found that the Large-flowered Trilliums were in peak bloom. This wild flower commonly will cover the forest floor in a carpet of white and green.  With overcast sky's and manageable wind I made up my mind to do a woodland landscape. I spent considerable amount of time searching out a composition to try and show what my eyes were observing. This old dead fall caught my eye and on closer inspection I also noticed last years leaves laying next to the dead fall, I consider both of these elements would help in telling the "nature story". Taking my camera out of the bag and putting on a wild angle lens, I  moved around trying to determine the best composition. Mounting my camera on my Gitzo tripod, I got low and close to the two flowers on the left, position the camera to show the hardwoods in the background, set the aperture, focused and took the image. The dead fall, oak leaves and the background of the forest all help tell the "nature story", Anyone looking at this image, whether they have ever seen this flower before would now know this wildflower grows in a hardwood forest! I like most photographers always want to take pretty pictures, but I also want my botanical images to be educational. The dead fall, leaves, and background all helped me in accomplishing this, of course the beautiful Trilliums fill in the rest to make this a "pretty" picture!
Good Shooting

Tech Data
Nikon D300
Nikon 12-24mm lens @ 24mm
F-22 @ 1/25 second
Manual exposure @ +2/3
Matrix metering
Cloudy White Balance
Gitzo 3530L tripod with RRS BH 55 Ball Head
Bubble level
Cable release
Mirror Lock-up
John Pennoyer > August 2012 "Shooting Sihouettes"

Teddy Roosevelt National Park is one of my favorite national parks to visit, it is only a days drive from my home and photo subjects are plentyful. On this very early morning I was heading to a sunrise location. I left Medora about 90 minutes before sunrise, this would allow plenty of time to photo the twilight color before sunrise. I was detained about 15-20 minutes by a herd of buffalo that was blocking the road and they would not budge so I could get through. But eventually I was able to slowly work my way through and I was able to continue on. However; just a little further down the road two big bull elk crossed the road right in front of me. Of course, being a wildlife photographer I stopped my vehicle and observed the two big bulls. The two bulls were in the bottom of the ravine and they were as interested in me as I was in them. I always believe being a prepared wildlife photographyer, my D200 with the 500mm attached was sitting in the passengar seat just waiting to go to work. It was to dark to get images in their present position, but I was hoping they would head up to the ridge allowing me the possibly of a nice twilight silhouette. With my lens resting on a bean bag I adjusted my ISO higher, set the Exposure Value to -2/3 and waited. One bull went up and over without stopping, but the other bull hit the ridge and as if he was posing for the camera, he remained there for two to three minutes and I was able to fire off several images. When shooting silhouettes I always like be sure certain criteria comes togethor to make it a worthwhile image. Silhouettes are easy, whenever the background light is brighter than the subject you have the makings of a silhouette. Here is some criteria I look for when shooting silhouettes.

1. Background Light: The background light should be  colorful and interesting, that is why sunrise/sunset usually make good silhouettes with color and texture.

2. Control light intensity: The camera's metering system will have a tendency to overexpose the image, so it is almost always necessary to under-expose. Let the black go black and control the background light. 

3. Subject define itself: When photographing birds or animals, be patient sometimes a head turn or body movement makes all the difference for the viewer to identify the subject. If shooting a static subject such a tree, cactus etc. sometime just you moving a few feet allows the subject to really define itself.

4. Focus: Even in a silhouette focus is critical, there may be no detail but sharp edges of your subject is a must. Generally manual focus will be necessary so either turn off auto focus or use the manual focus override.

  Needless to say I never made it to my sunrise location, but I feel the Elk images more than made up for it. I will make many more visits to T. Roosevelt and have lots of opportunities to capture more sunrise/sunsets. But getting these silhouetted bull elk images, is  certainly a rare photo op of being in the right place at the right time and that does not come around every day!
Good Shooting!

Technical Data
Nikon D200 camera
Nikon 500mm S lens
ISO 800 (really pushing for this camera, CS 5 noise reduction in post-processing)
F-4 @ 1/ 80
Aperture priority
Cloudy WB
Bean Bag on vehicle window
Exposure Value -2/3
John Pennoyer > December 2012 "Full Moon over Lamar Valley"


In late November I traveled to SW Montana to do a little photography, with my main subject being Bighorn Sheep during the rutting season. But being a photographer I enjoy photographing anything of interest especially if it has anything to do with nature.  I knew that on the evening of November 28th there was going to be a full moon. I have always enjoyed shooting the winter full moon, I love the reflections from a winter landscape and as long as I was in the area and the conditions were acceptable I would be doing some winter evening photography.  Doing my research ahead of time I figured the best location would be in the Lamar Valley. I had not been to Yellowstone NP in many years so I drove to the area a couple of hours before sunset to scout out various location in the Lamar Valley. Using my GPS and compass I determined the location of the rising moon and than proceeded to drive up and down the road to figure out the best location. I noticed that the Lamar River was still open because of the warm November weather. It was now getting quite dark and I could see the light of the moon just below the mountains so I hiked down to the area to further scout a location with the full moon and reflection on the river. I liked this location where the river splits and widens a little, so the moon is now just above the peaks and I quickly set up my equipment to take a series of images. It is always amazing how much light the full moon gives out especially on a cold clear night such as this. There is always something about a winter full moon that intrigues me, and when opportunities and conditions are met, I am usually out trying to capture the winter full moon. It is always important for a photographer to be well prepared and to scout their location in advance, sunrise/sunsets and moonrise/moonsets are very short in duration . From the time the sun/moon just touches the horizon to the time it is fully above the horizon is about 5 minutes. For me the best time to shoot the full moon is the evening before the official full moon or the evening of the full moon. Although the evening before is not the official full moon, you would never be able to tell by the image and on that night usually the moon rises before sunset and giving you some nice ambient light to work with. The evening of the full moon usually the moon rises after sunset but not by much and it gives the photographer still some nice twilight to work with. However, in this image it was a full hour after moonrise for the moon to get above the peaks, so by the time this image was taken it was quite dark! I usually choose daylight white balance and maybe cool a little more in post-processing this will enhance the "blue" color of evening. Slow shutter speeds are the norm so tripods and cable release are mandatory. Be sure your horizons are straight so use a bubble level or in-camera level. The full moon is a lot brighter than many people realize so monitor your histograms and "blinkies" for correct exposure. Most of all have some fun shooting the winter full moon.
Good Shooting! 

Technical Data
Nikon D800 (FX image area)
Nikon 28mm-70mm @ 31mm
ISO 640
Daylight WB
F-8 @ 20 sec
Gitzo 3530LS Tripod 
BH 55 RRS Ball head
Bubble level 
Cable Release
John Pennoyer > February 2013: "Brighton Beach at twilight"

 The term "twilight" is the time before sunrise and after sunset, usually from about 60 minutes to when the sun just peaks above the horizon or  from about 60 minutes after the sun just disappears from the horizon, some will also refer to this as pre-glow or after-glow. Regardless of what you desire to call this, from my perspective it certainly can be your best color of the morning or evening. This is one of the reasons I always tell my photography students that you should arrive at your sunrise location a minimum of 45 minutes before sunrise or stay at least 45 minutes after sunset. When the sun is in this position a glow will emit from the sun to the atmosphere and reflect back on earth. I can almost guarantee that if you have a cloudless morning or evening the sun will have a tendency to be hot and making a sunrise/sunset image very difficult. But when the sun is below the horizon this is the best time for the pink, blue and even purplish hues that occurs. Those beautiful colors will always occur opposite the sunset first and began to extend towards the sun until well after sunset.. So with your camera gear pointed west for that sunset, be sure to turn around to the east, you may be surprised your best color may be there. I generally find more pink/blue colors at sunset than sunrise, but it works also for sunrise, with the exception east/west will be reversed. Not sure if the frequency is more in the winter time compared to summer, but the majority of my images like this image is taken in the winter. If you are confronted with clear, calm sky's and crisp cold temperatures, I can almost guarantee you have the making for an excellent "twilight" image. All you now need to do is locate an interesting subject (here is where pre-scouting comes in). This image above was taken at Brighton Beach just outside of Duluth, MN, because of the cool, clear, calm sky I knew the sun would be going down hot. So I arrived well before sunset and found a couple of compositions that I liked and just waited for the magic to happen. This image was taken about 20 minutes after sunset, camera pointing easterly. The colors were there I just had to get a composition and the ice and calm lake (not often you see this on Lake Superior) fit the bill! Whether you are on a family vacation and just want a memorial picture, very serious amateur photographer, camera club member and looking for a special image for monthly competitions, plus the fact that everyone enjoys a colorful sunrise/sunset. My best tips for sunrise/sunset and twilight photography:
1.Pre- scout your location for interesting compositions
2. Arrive early/stay late
3.  And "always" look behind you!
Good Shooting!

Technical Data
Nikon D800
Nikon 28mm-70mm lens @ 28mm
Manual Exposure
F-11 @ 1/10 sec
ISO 200
Matrix metering
Gitzo 3530 LS Tripod
RRS BH55 Ballhead
Hama bubble level
Cable Release
Mirror Lock-up
John Pennoyer > April 2013 "After the spring Storm"

It is amazing to me how wildlife photography has changed over the years; I have been photographing (and hunting) wild turkeys for many years.  In the early 90's I would go to one of our wildlife management areas and set up my blind, put out the decoys and then use my various calls to try and bring a gobbler within 500mm range. In those days my wildlife area was also open to hunting so not to interfere with someones hunting if another vehicle was parked in the area I would just go across the street which was an SNA and not open to hunting. The majority of my turkey images were taken in that manner. But over the last few years the turkey population has really taken hold and many Eastern Wild Turkeys are now residents of many local parks and nature centers. Although technically still wild, however they are used to people and accept their presence. This has allowed many photographers and wildlife enthusiasts to observe and take images of turkeys that were almost impossible before. Although this does make photography a little easier, the challenge is still there. On this particular day we just had a 8" spring snow storm, so I headed out to my turkey woods looking for subjects to photograph. After considerable amount of time listening for gobbling and searching the area, I heard some gobbling, using my mouth call and giving some "yelps" the gobblers would answer me and eventually I was able to locate about 8-10 turkeys that included two mature gobblers, a couple of Jakes (young males) and the rest hens. For the next three hours I was able to follow this flock around and as they did their turkey thing I was able to capture many images, with the fresh spring snow fall made this a very magical day. These turkeys are still preyed on by coyotes, foxes etc. but have not been hunted, they still had the "wildness" about then, but as long as I kept my distance I was of no concern to them. For a change of pace I still will use my blind, decoys and calls etc. to lure in a gobbler for a photo, but I mainly do that now as I am scouting  my hunting area. 
Good Shooting

Technical Data
Nikon D800 (FX image area)
Nikon 70-200mm VR lens with 1.4X @ 122mm
Matrix metering
Aperture priority
1/200 @ F 5.6
EV + 1/3
Cloudy white balance
Handheld VR on
June 2011 "Showys in a Tamarack Bog"

With Minnesota being the land of 10,000 lakes it is no wonder that we also have many bogs to allow the adventurous photographer to explore. My first trip into a bog was around 1983/84, a friend took me in to look for a orchid called "Calypso". I was eager to go but had no idea what a bog was or even what the orchid looked like, my venue into photography was just starting. Upon entering the bog it was like being in a different world, being totally surrounded by the environment of a bog. Bog type trees being so close it made moving around very precarious and with each step your feet would sink into soft wet carpet of sphagnum moss. But after my friend located the Calypso Orchid and I looked at this most colorful and beautiful orchid, I was hooked. Ever since that year I make probably 3-4 trips every summer into various bogs in Minnesota and Western Wisconsin. This "Feature Photo" is giving some tips if you decide to get away from the crowd and do a little "Bog Photography". Bog environments are home to some very special botanical subjects including many of Minneosta's native orchid species. You can locate bogs by searching Minneosta or any other state Department of Natural Resource web site. In Minneosta also search "Scientific and Natural Areas" and also "The Nature Conservancy". When you locate a bog site many times they will also include a documented plant list for that particular bog. Just this year I discovered a new bog and found many botanical subjects including our state flower the Show Lady's slipper, the image for this feature photo was taken in that bog.
Before entering a bog I spray "Permanone" on my clothes from waist down this is good for ticks, I than spray all exposed skin with Deet, mosquitoes are usually horrendous in bogs. I always wear knee high rubber boots with pants tucked in and regardless of temperature and humidity long sleeve shirts and hat. I usually have a map of the area and "always" take a compass reading before entering. I do use a GPS but sometimes the trees are so thick it is hard to get satellite signals, so I generally have both compass and GPS. I would recommend that you enter a bog with a friend that likes to be adventurous also. When walking in a bog I tend to step on "clumps" of grasses or next to trees. A person can step into a soft part of the bog floor and sink into above your knees. That has only happened to me one time. Even though I have been asked many times to lead workshops or groups into bogs, I personally feel the environment is so sensitive that even one person can cause enviromental damage. Just imagine what damage 8-10 people can cause. I am personally alone or with just one friend. Also always watch where you step or kneel, many of the bog botanical subjects are very tiny and rare. Orchids are not always these big plants but maybe just a few inches above the bog floor, and some are very rare. So just use caution when entering a bog and caution where you step. One other word of caution, never leave your camera equipment unattended to go and explore, you may never find it again. One final note; some bogs do require a permit to enter if that is the case be sure to get the permit from the appropriate agency.
If you are like me and enjoy solitude and a pristine environment try a little bog photography.
Good Shooting


Tech Data
Nikon D300
Nikon 12mm-24mm lens @ 16mm
Manual Exposure @ +2/3
F-16 @ 1/4 sec
ISO 400
Cloudy White Balance
Matrix metering
Gitzo 1548 tripod
RRS BH 55 Ball Head
Cable Release and Mirror Lock-up
Hama Bubble lever
John Pennoyer > June 2011 "Showys in a Tamarack Bog"

With Minnesota being the land of 10,000 lakes it is no wonder that we also have many bogs to allow the adventurous photographer to explore. My first trip into a bog was around 1983/84, a friend took me in to look for a orchid called "Calypso". I was eager to go but had no idea what a bog was or even what the orchid looked like, my venue into photography was just starting. Upon entering the bog it was like being in a different world, being totally surrounded by the environment of a bog. Bog type trees being so close it made moving around very precarious and with each step your feet would sink into soft wet carpet of sphagnum moss. But after my friend located the Calypso Orchid and I looked at this most colorful and beautiful orchid, I was hooked. Ever since that year I make probably 3-4 trips every summer into various bogs in Minnesota and Western Wisconsin. This "Feature Photo" is giving some tips if you decide to get away from the crowd and do a little "Bog Photography". Bog environments are home to some very special botanical subjects including many of Minneosta's native orchid species. You can locate bogs by searching Minneosta or any other state Department of Natural Resource web site. In Minneosta also search "Scientific and Natural Areas" and also "The Nature Conservancy". When you locate a bog site many times they will also include a documented plant list for that particular bog. Just this year I discovered a new bog and found many botanical subjects including our state flower the Show Lady's slipper, the image for this feature photo was taken in that bog. 
Before entering a bog I spray "Permanone" on my clothes from waist down this is good for ticks, I than spray all exposed skin with Deet, mosquitoes are usually horrendous in bogs. I always wear knee high rubber boots with pants tucked in and regardless of temperature and humidity long sleeve shirts and hat. I usually have a map of the area and "always" take a compass reading before entering. I do use a GPS but sometimes the trees are so thick it is hard to get satellite signals, so I generally have both compass and GPS. I would recommend that you enter a bog with a friend that likes to be adventurous also. When walking in a bog I tend to step on "clumps" of grasses or next to trees. A person can step into a soft part of the bog floor and sink into above your knees. That has only happened to me one time. Even though I have been asked many times to lead workshops or groups into bogs, I personally feel the environment is so sensitive that even one person can cause enviromental damage. Just imagine what damage 8-10 people can cause. I am personally alone or with just one friend. Also always watch where you step or kneel, many of the bog botanical subjects are very tiny and rare. Orchids are not always these big plants but maybe just a few inches above the bog floor, and some are very rare. So just use caution when entering a bog and caution where you step.  One other word of caution, never leave your camera equipment unattended to go and explore, you may never find it again. One final note; some bogs do require a permit to enter if that is the case be sure to get the permit from the appropriate agency. 
If you are like me and enjoy solitude and a pristine environment try a little bog photography. 
Good Shooting

Tech Data
Nikon D300
Nikon 12mm-24mm lens @ 16mm
Manual Exposure @ +2/3
F-16 @ 1/4 sec
ISO 400
Cloudy White Balance
Matrix metering
Gitzo 1548 tripod
RRS BH 55 Ball Head
Cable Release and Mirror Lock-up
Hama Bubble lever
June 2011 "Showys in a Tamarack Bog"

With Minnesota being the land of 10,000 lakes it is no wonder that we also have many bogs to allow the adventurous photographer to explore. My first trip into a bog was around 1983/84, a friend took me in to look for a orchid called "Calypso". I was eager to go but had no idea what a bog was or even what the orchid looked like, my venue into photography was just starting. Upon entering the bog it was like being in a different world, being totally surrounded by the environment of a bog. Bog type trees being so close it made moving around very precarious and with each step your feet would sink into soft wet carpet of sphagnum moss. But after my friend located the Calypso Orchid and I looked at this most colorful and beautiful orchid, I was hooked. Ever since that year I make probably 3-4 trips every summer into various bogs in Minnesota and Western Wisconsin. This "Feature Photo" is giving some tips if you decide to get away from the crowd and do a little "Bog Photography". Bog environments are home to some very special botanical subjects including many of Minneosta's native orchid species. You can locate bogs by searching Minneosta or any other state Department of Natural Resource web site. In Minneosta also search "Scientific and Natural Areas" and also "The Nature Conservancy". When you locate a bog site many times they will also include a documented plant list for that particular bog. Just this year I discovered a new bog and found many botanical subjects including our state flower the Show Lady's slipper, the image for this feature photo was taken in that bog.
Before entering a bog I spray "Permanone" on my clothes from waist down this is good for ticks, I than spray all exposed skin with Deet, mosquitoes are usually horrendous in bogs. I always wear knee high rubber boots with pants tucked in and regardless of temperature and humidity long sleeve shirts and hat. I usually have a map of the area and "always" take a compass reading before entering. I do use a GPS but sometimes the trees are so thick it is hard to get satellite signals, so I generally have both compass and GPS. I would recommend that you enter a bog with a friend that likes to be adventurous also. When walking in a bog I tend to step on "clumps" of grasses or next to trees. A person can step into a soft part of the bog floor and sink into above your knees. That has only happened to me one time. Even though I have been asked many times to lead workshops or groups into bogs, I personally feel the environment is so sensitive that even one person can cause enviromental damage. Just imagine what damage 8-10 people can cause. I am personally alone or with just one friend. Also always watch where you step or kneel, many of the bog botanical subjects are very tiny and rare. Orchids are not always these big plants but maybe just a few inches above the bog floor, and some are very rare. So just use caution when entering a bog and caution where you step. One other word of caution, never leave your camera equipment unattended to go and explore, you may never find it again. One final note; some bogs do require a permit to enter if that is the case be sure to get the permit from the appropriate agency.
If you are like me and enjoy solitude and a pristine environment try a little bog photography.
Good Shooting


Tech Data
Nikon D300
Nikon 12mm-24mm lens @ 16mm
Manual Exposure @ +2/3
F-16 @ 1/4 sec
ISO 400
Cloudy White Balance
Matrix metering
Gitzo 1548 tripod
RRS BH 55 Ball Head
Cable Release and Mirror Lock-up
Hama Bubble lever
Other sizes: S • Medium • L |
filename: OSL-11007 |
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